Care Information On Hedgehogs

Hedgehog Care
This page will give you some basic information about caring for hedgehogs.

Temperatures
One of the most important things about owning a hedgehog is to offer the proper temperature. Unlike most mammals, hedgehogs require a specific (and limited) temperature range to keep them healthy. The ideal temperature range is 75°F - 85°F.
COLD
While hedgehog can survive at temperatures between 70F – 95F, it is not recommended to allow temperatures to linger around 70F for prolonged period of time.

	First and foremost, you need to purchase a digital thermometer. Humans are terrible at telling what the actual temperature is; and this is extremely important when keeping a hedgehog. You MUST know the actual temperature to ensure that your hedgehog remains healthy.
	There are many methods of heating available, however, we strongly recommend using ambient heat such as a heat lamp. Heat sources that only heat the laying surface, such as heating pads, will not heat the air that the hedgehog is breathing and could lead to a respiratory infection or other illness. Utility lamps can be purchased at the hardware store, and even most Walmarts, and are inexpensive. You can purchase actual heating bulbs although regular incandescent bulbs are sufficient for heating.
	You MUST check the temperature at least every 10-12 hours to ensure that the wattage of the bulb is correct for the temperature needed. It is best to start with a 40 watt bulb and if the temperature required is not reached, increase the wattage as necessary.
	In the event of a power outage, please make accommodations for your hedgehog with a family member, neighbor, etc. They cannot endure the same temperatures that we can.

HEAT
Hedgehogs can endure temperatures up to 85F but should not be allowed to remain in temperatures exceeding 85F for prolonged periods of time. Over exposure to extreme temperatures can cause heat exhaustion and even death.

	If you keep your AC turned down pretty low, please do not sit your hedgehog directly under an AC vent. This could cause them to become to cold and lead to health problems.
	In the event of a power outage, a large bowl of ice can drop the temperature in a hedgehog’s cage by as much as 10F (which is usually sufficient to reach the desired temp.)

Please contact us if you have any questions about temperature requirements or emergency measures that can be taken.

Handling
When bringing home a new hedgehog, give them 24 - 48 hours to acclimate themselves to their new surroundings. There will be new smells and sounds which may be frightening to them and they may not tolerate being handled right away. After he/she has settled in, handle him/her daily to ensure the best possible bond. Typically hedgehogs are up and moving around sundown and most are more receptive to being handled once they are awake.
Hedgehogs (especially babies) SLEEP A LOT. This is normal.
It may take a few days for the hedgehog to feel comfortable enough to resume eating normal quantities of food. Nibbling at first is normal. When picking up a hedgehog, it is best to slip your fingers under their belly and lift straight up. In nature, predators attack from behind so if you grab them from behind, your hedgie will instinctively curl up. This is a sign of fear, not aggression. When hedgehogs feel safe and comfortable and are picked up correctly, they are very calm and sweet creatures. If your hedgehog balls up and huffs, pick him/her up regardless and wait patiently for them to open up. If you allow him/her to intimidate you once, they will continue to do so. Do not try to restrain him/her. Allow them to walk around freely. If you try to restrain him/her they will react negatively. In the unlikely event that your hedgehog should bite you, try not to over-react. Hedgehogs do not typically bite and he/she may have smelled something on you that they thought was edible. Wash up and try again. Over-reacting to a bite or a grumpy hedgehog will encourage the negative behavior. If they realize that they didn't accomplish much by biting, they are less likely to try it in the future. Never discipline a hedgehog. They are animals and do not understand that they have done something wrong. They will view acts such as raising your voice or thumping their nose as harm and it will almost certainly guarantee a repeat of the negative behavior as well as possibly break your bond permanently. Over the years, we have found that down-playing and not over-reacting to undesired behavior is usually the best deterrent.
NOTE: Lay out an old towel or equivalent to protect clothing, carpet and furniture in case he/she makes an oops while roaming.

Housing
USDA guidelines state that the minimum cage requirement is 2 sq. ft. of floor space. We recommend 3-4 sq. ft. of floor space ... the more, the better. Hedgehogs love to explore each night. Extra space will also allow for a hide hut, exercise wheel and litter pan (if training is desired). Hedgehogs can climb and escape from a cage with no top if the sides are not tall enough. Hedgehogs have tiny feet that will slip through wire bottoms causing injury so a solid bottom is a must. Substrate or bedding for hedgehogs can include wood shavings, paper bedding or cage liners. If you choose to use a wood product, you must NEVER USE CEDAR as it contains oils that are toxic to all animals. Kiln dried pine is an acceptable alternative. There are paper beddings available in most pet stores (i.e. non-colored Carefresh, SoftZorb, etc.) but watch for allergies and dry skin conditions when using paper products.
Hedgehogs are solitary animals. Housing more than one hedgehog in a cage is NOT recommended regardless of gender. Even two females may squabble if housed together, and the resulting injuries can be fatal. We strongly advise 1 hedgehog per cage.
Where not to place your hedgehog (in your home)
When bringing home a hedgehog, much consideration must be given to the location in which to place his/her cage. You want to ensure that you place your hedgehog in a safe and temperature controlled location. Special consideration should also be given to the fact that while hedgehogs spend time awake during the day, they are primarily nocturnal (and most likely, you are not.)
Temperature is important so you should have a digital thermometer to properly monitor the temperatures in the cage. You should avoid placing your hedgehog in the following locations in your home:

	Fireplaces – NEVER place your hedgehog near a fireplace. Temperatures near fireplaces can often exceed 90˚-125˚; and the smoke and fumes emitted can be lethal to your hedgehog. Caged animals (of any species) should never be placed within 15-20 feet of a fireplace.
	Near Windows – Windows are often drafty and allow marked temperature fluctuations. During winter months, the temperature difference near a window can be as much as 20˚ colder than the center point of the room. In summer months, windows can act as a large magnifying glass, amplifying heat from the sun, leading to heat exhaustion.
	Near Doors – Doors are quite often drafty and entry doors are extremely likely to cause marked temperature fluctuations by allowing outdoor temperatures into your hedgehog’s home each time the door is opened.
	Laundry Room – While it seems an unlikely area to place your hedgehog, some folks may try this. I strongly advise against it. Obviously there may be temperature fluctuations when the dryer is in use. The noise will undoubtedly cause stress for your hedgehog. Most importantly, if a hedgehog is placed on top of either the washer or dryer, the vibration can cause the hedgehog to become ill and could lead to death. Vibration will not only cause gastric (stomach) disturbances, it can also cause inner ear problems and even neurological issues. Just avoid this room altogether.
	Kitchens/Dining Room – Though it may sound silly, some folks do have caged animals in or near their kitchen or dining room. This should be avoided. Kitchens can often exceed ideal temperatures when an oven is in use. Fumes from gas stoves/ovens can be harmful or lethal. Often, kitchens and dining rooms are stressful areas for hedgehogs, as there is an increased amount of noise (pots and pans clanging, fridge door being opened and closed, etc.), increased traffic through the area and a large volume of smells. Too many odor fluctuations can cause your hedgehog to become reluctant to eat and/or become withdrawn or aggressive.
	Bedrooms – We do not recommend bedrooms because they may be kept at a cooler temperature, for the sleeping comfort of the humans. In addition to temperature problems, there is the chance that your primarily nocturnal friend may keep you awake all night. You may even disturb him/her. Unfamiliar sounds (especially repetitive noises such as snoring or beds squeaking) can cause stress. If hedgehogs are stressed by repetitive noises, they will often exhibit behavioral changes. These changes could be a sign of a health problem caused by the stress.

**If an area is uncomfortable/stressful to you, it will certainly be detrimental to your hedgehog. Hedgehogs are far more sensitive than humans in many aspects; particularly with sounds, smells and temperatures.

Water, Food and Insects
Many specialty foods are available for hedgehogs, however, it has been our experience that they do not meet the nutritional requirements and many hedgehogs will not eat them. Our recommendation is a mix of good quality dry cat foods (though offering only 1 quality food may be sufficient.) It’s very important, regardless of which dry food you offer, that you offer live insects such as mealworms, crickets and wax worms. ALL FREEZE-DRIED insects should be avoided. Live insects can be offered daily unless the hedgehog is obese, and should be offered no less than 3 days per week. Hedgehogs are insectivorous and must have insects in their diet to maintain optimal health.
If you are not willing to handle live insects...hedgehogs ARE NOT the pet for you.
You must observe your hedgehog’s weight. Some hedgehogs will become overweight from either over-eating or lack of exercise. If you notice that your hedgehog is unable to roll into a ball and/or has a noticeable amount fatty tissue around the front shoulders (noticeable hump) or excessive fatty tissue around the rump (when laid upon its back) then you'll want to consider a lower calorie dry food and/or rationing the amount of food. Food should be offered in a shallow, heavy dish that can hold approximately ½ - 1 cup of food. Unless your hedgehog shows signs of a weight problem, food should be offered at all times. Food remaining from the previous day should be discarded and fresh food offered daily. We find that it is best to offer a water bottle rather than a water dish. Typically hedgies will knock a water dish over, play in it, or fill it full of bedding. It just tends to be messy and doesn’t allow access to clean water at all times.
Click here for a list of foods that are known to be TOXIC (or problematic) to hedgehogs & other animals.

Exercise
An exercise wheel is a must! Hedgehogs are foragers. They can (and do) walk up to 7 or more miles each night. The exercise wheel provides the hedgehog with a way to satisfy that natural need to walk. This will also help to ensure that your hedgehog stays as healthy as possible and doesn't become overweight. The wheel should have a solid walking surface to prevent injuries such as snagged toenails or trapped limbs, as hedgehogs have tiny feet. Hedgehogs are primarily nocturnal; most of their waking hours are after sundown, with only eating/drinking/potty trips during the day. This also means that the wheel will mostly be in use during the night. See below "Where Not To Place Your Hedgehog".
Other suitable exercise options include:

Allowing your hedgehog to run around on a protected surface, with your supervision, is a great way to keep them in shape.

Taking a dip in the bathtub is fantastic exercise. See "Cleaning" section below.

Strolling in a runaround ball is great exercise. The ball must be the ferret size to accommodate a hedgehog's stride. When using the ball, you will want to make sure that it is on a protected surface.

Tunnels/Tubes that are at least 4" in diameter for them to trot around in.

An empty toilet paper tube makes a free and funny toy that will keep them busy which is also good exercise.
Just make sure to remove it from the cage when you're not around to ensure that they have access to food and water.

Cleaning and Bathing
Bathing should only be done when necessary. Each bath removes vital oils from their skin and may cause dry or flaky skin. When needed, run just enough lukewarm (never hot or cold) water to reach the hedgehog’s belly. Once he/she is used to the water, you can raise the water level, allowing them to swim. Since they're such small animals, they can be bathed in a sink or wash-pan ... or ... if you like you can use the tub or a kiddie pool to allow for more room to roam. If taking a dip doesn’t clean all soiled areas, you can use a tooth brush to gently scrub him/her clean. They usually like to play in the water for a while but never leave him/her unattended as they could escape or possibly even drown. Give your hedgie plenty of towel time. Hedgies should be COMPLETELY dry when placed back into their cage. Damp hedgies + drafty cages = illness.
Cleaning your hedgehog’s cage is simple. Mix 1 part chlorine bleach to 10 parts water and use this to clean the cage, litter pan, wheel, hide hut, food bowl and water bottle. Make sure to rinse thoroughly and drip or towel dry. This should be done every 2–3 days or as often as needed if you have an unusually messy hedgie. This will keep down any bacteria growth and odor and keep your hedgie happy and healthy. Cleaning doesn't have to be a thankless chore ... spend time with your hedgie while the cage dries. By spending time with your hedgie, then returning him/her to a clean cage, you just might be reinforcing the bond with your hedgie.

Illness
FIRST AND FOREMOST, if you suspect that your hedgehog is ill or injured, seek the medical attention of a licensed vet that is experienced with hedgehogs immediately.
While we are knowledgeable about some hedgehog health issues, we are not medical professionals. All medical issues and injuries should be referred to your veterinarian.
Several things can affect a hedgehog’s health. Hedgehogs can develop or suffer from obesity, skin conditions, respiratory infections, injuries, mites, fungal infections, congenital defects, neurological disorders, etc. Some of these issues can be researched on the internet and treated successfully; however we recommend that you at least consult with a licensed vet before beginning any treatment. We choose not to delve too deeply into these issues. We feel that they are best left to professionals. If you feel that there is a problem, PLEASE visit a licensed vet.
Parasites: It is possible that your hedgie could contract external parasites. Wood shavings can contain mites and if there are other animals in your home that travel outside, it is possible that they could bring in mites and fleas. Signs and symptoms could be: Constant scratching (remember that all animals do scratch occasionally), dry and flaking skin, cracked skin, open sores and quill loss resulting in bald spots (losing a few quills is likely normal, bald spots are not), caked or crusty-looking ears or muzzle. If you observe any of these symptoms, contact your vet. An infestation of parasites will result in health problems that could lead to death.

Click here for a list of VETS that treat hedgehogs

Miscellaneous
Hedgehogs will "anoint" themselves when they smell new scents. This is when they lick themselves (usually on the back) creating a foam that is clearly visible. It is a natural behavior and nothing to be alarmed about. As a result of anointing, the saliva will dry and flake off. This can sometimes be mistaken for a skin problem. If your hedgie has recently anointed and has flakes, give him/her a quick rinse in lukewarm water, no shampoo. There should be no signs of flakes after the rinse, unless they anoint again.

For more information on hedgehogs, see the video at the bottom of this page and visit Hedgehog Central.